MONTILLA MORILES, a hidden and unknown wine region
In Andalucia there are 6 DOs. We have already visited many wineries in Jerez and Manzanilla de Sanlucar (world famous for Sherry and Manzanilla), DO Malaga and DO Sierras de Malaga but Montilla Moriles was completely unknown and that had to change.
The area where Sherry comes from (the Sherry Triangle consisting of Jerez, El Puerto de Santa Maria and Sanlucar de Barrameda) is the most famous wine region in Andalucia and has many similarities with Montilla Moriles.
The Denominations of Origin "Jerez-Xérès-Sherry" and "Manzanilla - Sanlúcar de Barrameda" was the first to be established according to the terms of the Spanish Wine Statute of 1933 and is therefore the oldest Consejo in Spain.
The DO Montlla Moriles is also one of the oldest designations of origin in Spain. It was recognized in 1932 by the Statute of Viticulture and Wine, which legally protected the names Montilla and Moriles. It published its regulations due to the war in 1945, after the creation of its Regulatory Council had been approved.
Montilla Moriles is located approximately 125km from Malaga, approximately 45km from Cordoba and approximately 225km from Jerez de la Frontera.
The climate is a semi-continental Mediterranean climate with long, hot, dry summers and short winters. The vineyards are all located between 37º 11' and 37º 40' north latitude, average minimum and maximum temperatures of 12.2 and 25.7 degrees Celsius, have between 2,800 and 3,000 hours of sunshine per year and between 501 and 998 mm of rainfall per year. The vineyards of the DOP are located at an altitude of between 125 m and 600 m above sea level.
Due to the climatic conditions, the harvest in Montilla Moriles usually begins in the month of August, the earliest in Spain and probably in Europe.
The wine region is located in the province of Córdoba with the Guadalquivir to the north, the Subbética mountain ranges to the south, the Genil River to the east and the Guadajoz to the west. An area that integrates a total of 17 municipalities (Montilla, Moriles, Dona Mencia, Montalban de Cordoba, Monturque, Nueva Carteya, Puente Genil, Aguilar de Frontera, Baena, Cabra, Castro del Rio, Espejo, Fernan-Nunez, La Rambla, Lucena, Montemayor and Santaella).
The main grape in the area (more than 95%) is PEDRO XIMENEZ. Pedro Ximénez is a grape variety that ripens mid to late. Because the Pedro Ximénez grape often does not thrive in Jerez, sherry producers in Jerez de la Frontera often buy Pedro Ximénez wine from the Montilla-Moriles region. The grape can also be found in the DO of Jerez de la Frontera, Malaga, Sierras de Malaga and Valencia.
Who was Pedro Ximénez? There are many theories about this.
According to legend, it was a soldier in the 17th century in the service of Emperor Charles V, Peter Siemens, who came to recover from the wars in the north around Castilleja de la Cuesta, just outside Seville, and planted a grape variety there that he had brought from the Rhine.
But there is also a version that it was a merchant from Rotterdam, Pieter Simonsz, who is said to have traveled around Spain around 1600 and planted grapes near Guadalcazar, just below Cordoba, that he had brought from the Rhineland.
Today, ampelographers believe that Pedro Ximénez probably originated somewhere in the Andalusia region of southern Spain, where the grape has been grown since the early 17th century. In 1618, Spanish writer Vicente Espinel described the famous wine of "Pedro Ximénez de Malaga".
It is striking that the wine referred to as Pedro Ximenez already appears in old Dutch sources. A price list from 1609 of wines that were auctioned on the Amsterdam market, Pieter Cemeynes nieu reports. And in 1628, Pieters semeijnen appears as the very best wine in the cellar of a Rotterdam wine merchant. The wine appears in all kinds of other sources from this period, usually in connection with other wines from the far south of Spain such as the Syrese secken (seck from Jerez). Spelling variations are Pietersemeynse, Piere Semeines etc… It seems that the Dutch mention from 1609 is at least older than the oldest Spanish mention, from 1618: ‘una bota de Pedro Ximenez de Malaga’.
In 1661, scholar Philip Jacob Sachs von Lewenheim speculated in his 1661 book Ampelographia that Pedro Ximenez originated in the Canary Islands or Madeira and was later brought to the German wine regions of Rheingau, Rheinhessen and eventually the Mosel before a Spanish soldier named Pedro Ximen or a Catholic cardinal named Ximenès brought the grape to Malaga and Sierras de Malaga. This theory, circulated in various forms by other German wine writers, also led to speculation that Pedro Ximénez was somehow related to (or possibly the same grape as) the German wine grapes Elbling and Riesling, but modern DNA research has since established that Pedro Ximenez is not related to any grape from northern Europe. Furthermore, viticultural evidence had been available for decades to show that Pedro Ximénez requires a much warmer climate than most German wine grapes to fully ripen.
In 2007, DNA analysis showed that Pedro Ximénez was the descendant of the Arabian table grape Gibi, which was once grown in southern France and throughout the Iberian Peninsula, possibly introduced sometime during the Al-Andalus period of Moorish rule. Gibi was also found to be one of the parent varieties of the Extremadura wine grape Alarije, making the later variety a half-sibling of Pedro Ximénez.
French ampelographer Joseph Roy-Chevrier speculated in 1905 that the grape was named after the village of Jiménez in Sanlucar de Barrameda.
Because Ximénez and Jimenez are common surnames in Iberia, another theory is that the grape was named after a well-known winemaker who helped spread the variety throughout the region.
We will probably never know for sure.
Although most Montilla-Moriles wines are made with the Pedro Ximénez grape variety, there are also certain wines that are obtained with other white varieties that are permitted in the DO: Layren, Baladí, Verdejo, Moscatel de grano Menudo, Moscatel de Alejandría, Torrontés, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Macabeo.
Worrying situation in the region: of the 770,000 liters of wine exported from Montilla-Moriles in 2021, worth €2.5 million, more than half was sold in bulk; the vineyard area is less than 5,000 hectares compared to 18,000 in 1970; and the number of winegrowers continues to decline.
SOIL TYPES in Montilla Moriles
ALBARIZA (Alba means white)
Within the production zone, the subzone of superior quality is distinguished, consisting of undulating and very white (reflects light during dry months and improves photosynthesis) terrain, called albarizas, and located mainly in the Sierra de Montilla and the Moriles Altos. Albarizas are soils rich in calcium carbonate, poor in organic matter, formed by soft loam, with a flaky or lumpy structure, very deep and with a high moisture retention capacity. The lamellar structure of the soil expands like a sponge when rain falls and absorbs large amounts of water. When the weather gets warm, the upper layer of the soil becomes compact and forms a hard crust, preventing evaporation. In these soils, the roots of the species develop mainly in the first seventy centimetres of depth, although the main root can be more than four metres deep. They are considered the highest quality soils for the fortified wines and liqueur wines of Montilla-Moriles, and therefore it is required that a minimum percentage of the stocks of wine undergoing maturation come from said sub-zone. This soil is also present in the sherry area. Production limits are regularly set at 80 hl/ha in the main DO and at 60 hl/ha in the high quality zones.
ARENAS ROJAS
The Sands are strongly reddish soils up to two metres thick, with a white horizon or layer underneath that is very rich in limestone. They are soils with deep profiles and a surface horizon with a silty to sandy loam texture, a lumpy-grained structure, permeable, very porous and red in colour. There are a large number of boulders on the surface. These soils predominate in the western part of the DO, and to a lesser extent also in the centre. Red and red-brown soils make up 15% of the vineyards in the area. They are developed on limestone sandstone in flat physiographic positions, with a flat topography with slopes of less than 2% and located between 300-400 meters of altitude.
RUEDOS
The vertisol soils called “bujeos” in the area develop on marl from the Miocene in physiographic positions of valleys with more or less undulating topographies, slopes between 2-16% and 240-300 m of altitude. These soils can bring with them some limiting factors for viticulture, such as clay texture and hydromorphism, slope and erosion.
ZONES in Montilla Moriles
ZONA SIERRA DE MONTILLA
The area of superior quality called Sierra de Montilla consists of Montilla and the adjacent area of Castro del Rio and Cabra. It is land of the Cretaceous period, formed by very limestone Marly lands. The Cretaceous is a very interesting area from a viticultural point of view, since many of the areas that produce the most famous wines of France are of a geological nature of the Cretaceous. In the Marco de Montilla-Moriles, the highest and eastern part of the term is called “Sierra de Montilla”, that is, the part of the most pronounced relief that stands out in the distance from the town of Montilla. In the municipality of Cabra and Castro del Rio they also belong to the “Sierra de Montilla”, due to their identity of the soils in terrains of a geological nature of the Cretaceous period, and for their analogous and prominent relief with very calcareous soils of high quality.
ZONA ALTOS MORILES
The Altos de Moriles are made up of very calcareous soils formed on the rough plates of the upper Oligocene. It has a geological structure that is transmitted to the soil and that comes from xeric conditions, and that explains many of the exceptional physical characteristics of this vineyard soil of immense quality. The Oligocene terrain from a geological era that is very different from the Cretaceous of the Sierra de Montilla, although in both cases the materials are loamy and strongly limestone. It is difficult to imagine that in a hot and dry climate there are more favourable characteristics for the vineyard variety than those of the exceptional soil and the very unique soil of the Pagos de Moriles.
What kind of wines are there in the area?
VINO JOVEN MONTILLA MORILES
Cheerful, fresh and low-quality,
seduces with its fruity aromas,
floral, balanced and light.
Authorized varieties are used for production, harvested when the sugar content is around 190 grams per liter. The utmost care is taken when harvesting these grapes so that they arrive at the winery in the best possible condition. In the winery, the grapes are treated delicately, with very gentle crushing and pressing, and ferment at a low temperature so that the essence of their aromas is preserved.
GRAPES: In addition to Pedro Ximénez, other grape varieties are also used such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Verdejo or Torrontés, which give these wines freshness and a great amount of aromas.
TEMPERATURE: These wines should be consumed very cold, between 7 and 9ºC.
TASTING NOTES: Clean, bright and transparent in appearance, they generally have a very light yellow color. It gives primary floral and fruity aromas and in the mouth it is very fresh, dry, with a noticeable acidity.
PAIRING: Starter wines, seafood and fried fish. Very good feeling with cold creams, such as salmorejo cordobé and mazamorra. In rice dishes it plays a leading role and refreshes the taste buds. Due to its glyceric softness in the texture, it softens quite well dressings and salads, which are difficult to combine due to their vinegar content.
VINO DE TINAJA MONTILLA MORILES
It is made with grapes of the Pedro Ximénez variety in concrete pots (Tinaja), with hardly any manipulation. Currently, in most wineries, fermentation takes place (due to climate change) in stainless steel tanks with controlled temperature. At the end of this, the wines are poured into the barrels where they finish the fermentation and are then stored there for a year with the aim of decanting, stabilizing and cleaning the wines. The minimum graduation will be 10% vol.
TEMPERATURE: These wines should be consumed very cold, between 7 and 9ºC.
TASTING NOTES: Clean, clear, transparent wine, light yellow to golden in colour. Fruity and floral aromas with the presence of characteristic notes of the Pedro Ximénez grape and fresh in the mouth, more voluminous than young wines and noticeable acidity.
PAIRING: Starter wines, seafood and fried fish. Very good feeling with cold creams, such as salmorejo cordobé and mazamorra. In rice dishes it plays a leading role, refreshing the taste buds. Due to its glyceric softness in its texture, it softens dressings and salads quite well, which are difficult to combine due to its vinegar content.
VINO FINO MONTILLA MORILES
The process begins with the extraction of the so-called yolk must, the first to come out after the pressing of the Pedro Ximenez grapes. This must ferment and rest for a year in a barrel and then begins the maturation phase in barrels through the criaderas and solera system, where the biological maturation/ageing and the development of the flor veil begin. Biological maturation, the most important contribution of Andalusia to world oenology, transforms the recently fermented wine, which was initially fruity, into a wine with much less body and more finesse, more lightness in the mouth and at the same time with more fragrance and many more aromas.
What is Flor? The biological ageing of Fino wines is a process carried out by a specialized type of yeast, Saccharomyces cerevisiae (flor yeast), which is able to form a biofilm on the surface of the wine, called "flor". In this surface, the ethanol is oxidized to acetaldehyde through the action of alcohol dehydrogenase, thus protecting the wine from oxidation. This biofilm is very sensitive to increases in temperature, so global warming represents a threat that worries wineries, as the deterioration of the flor is becoming more frequent during warmer months, with the appearance of undesirable nuances in the wine.
How? During the final stages of the process, a thin white layer forms on the must. This thin film covers the entire surface of the wine and is known as velo de flor – a type of yeast native to the region. The yeast used in the fermentation process disappears once all the sugar has been converted into alcohol.
Other native yeasts from the same saccharomyces strain, known as flor, are also used in the Sherry Triangle. This extraordinarily unique yeast is the result of centuries of evolution of the yeast used in the fermentation process. Flor has developed a special resistance to high ethanol and has a completely different metabolism than fermentation yeast: it feeds on alcohol which it combines with oxygen to produce acetaldehyde. During the fermentation process, this unique yeast strain is immersed in the must until the alcohol reaches the level necessary to make the fermentation yeast disappear.
The flor initially captures the oxygen dissolved in the liquid; but once it has used all the oxygen, it is forced to the surface to breathe. Once on the surface, the flor begins to multiply and colonize the entire surface of the wine to form a dense bread-like layer over the entire surface. From that moment on, the wine is protected from the atmosphere to prevent direct oxidation. This is when the symbiotic relationship with the yeast begins that transforms the wine over time.
The living organisms that make up the flor permanently eliminate some components in the wine, especially alcohol, while also providing other components, such as acetaldehyde. They eliminate: alcohol, sugar residues, glycerine and all the oxygen dissolved in the wine. They provide: in parallel they provide a series of components, including acetaldehyde.
TEMPERATURE: These wines should be consumed cool, between 9 and 12ºC.
TASTING NOTES: Fino is a pure, clear, transparent wine, straw yellow to old gold in color, with olive notes typical of the Pedro Ximénez grape. The nose is of great aromatic complexity, elegant, sharp and delicate, with aromas typical of biological maturation and reminiscent of yeast, bread dough and almonds. In the mouth it is dry, with a friendly and light entry, a salty and slightly bitter touch, light and fragrant in the mouth.
PAIRING: With its powerful salty character and elegant bitterness it is a great aperitif. It harmonizes particularly well with seafood and fish. It also combines beautifully with nuts, hams and Iberian meats, without leaving behind salted meats, sausages and cheeses that are not overly salted. Furthermore, as it is a wine with a lower acidity, it goes well with complex dishes such as salads. The older ones make friends with strongly flavoured fish, such as sea bass, sea bream and salmon. With products that are difficult to combine, such as artichokes or cardoons, it goes very well because of the final bitterness and softness of the texture, especially when it is well on the bunch. In Asian cuisine you will find a sum of surprising sensations and nuances.
VINO AMONTILLADO MONTILLA MORILES
The main characteristic is oxidative ageing. Amontillado from Pedro Ximénez grapes is obtained from a good wine, which matures under normal conditions in wineries that have the right characteristics: albero soil to keep the humidity high; high ceilings to achieve a stable temperature and constant air renewal so that the yeast can always develop in its ideal habitat. Once the required minimum of five years has been exceeded, the good wine can lose its floral veil naturally (sudden changes in temperature and/or humidity), or by a well-considered decision of the winery technician (alcoholisation). After this biological ageing phase, a subsequent oxidative ageing phase begins for a minimum of three years, during which the alcohol level is gradually increased to above 16% vol. and that gives the wine unique physico-chemical and organoleptic characteristics.
TEMPERATURE: These wines should be consumed at moderate temperatures, between 12 and 14ºC.
TASTING NOTES: It appears clean, clear, transparent, golden to intense amber. With an aroma of nuts and wood typical of the double aging, biological and oxidative, it can show hints of varnish and a dry, light, acidic and very persistent taste.
PAIRING: It is a wine that, due to its aromatic and gustatory complexity, can be the perfect companion for big game, smoked meats, highly matured cheeses, ham, etc. With pickled partridge and, why not, to make a combination of contrasts, with foie timbale, goat cheese and jam, the result is surprising, especially aromatic, because retronasally an unparalleled amount of aromas is achieved. It also stands out next to soups and consommés. Special mention also deserves the combination with risotto, mushrooms and smoked meats.
VINO PALO CORTADO MONTILLA MORILES
Originally it was an unsought production that came about by chance: a wine (Pedro Ximénez) that was initially intended as a good wine, at a certain point during the biological maturation process saw the flor weaken and began to suffer from oxidation. When this happened, they used it in the winery for oxidative ageing. That is why Palo Cortado has such unique organoleptic properties, because it undergoes a first phase of biological ageing and a second phase of oxidative ageing, ageing under the criaderas and solera system.
TEMPERATURE: These wines should be consumed at moderate temperatures, between 12 and 14ºC.
TASTING NOTES: Being a deep wine, Palo Cortado requires a slow consumption, enjoying it in small sips and giving it the importance it deserves. On the nose it reminds us of the complexity of an Amontillado, and on the palate it is as light, soft and complex as an Oloroso, although slightly more subtle and elegant.
PAIRING: On the palate it is similar to Oloroso, but its greater aromatic range makes it particularly interesting for meat with sauce or large game (deer, wild boar), accompanied by nuances of rosemary, thyme... because they need a greater aromatic intensity to contrast. Pig's trotters, offal and grilled tuna are spectacular dishes in combination with a Palo Cortado, dry, aromatic and powerful on the palate.
VINO OLOROSO MONTILLA MORILES
The production is characterized by subjecting the recently finished Pedro Ximénez grape wine to an exclusively oxidative process in American oak barrels, in which the proliferation of flor yeasts is not allowed thanks to the alcoholization and the total filling of the barrel. In this way, the base wine, through the action of oxygen and the wood itself, is transformed into a richer and more complex wine. Before going to the criaderas, it goes to a minimum of 16 degrees.
TEMPERATURE: These wines should be consumed at moderate temperatures, between 12 and 14ºC.
TASTING NOTES: Perfectly pure, clear wine, old gold to dark mahogany in colour, with aromas of nuts and wood, typical of oxidative ageing, and can show notes of varnish and a slightly unctuous and persistent flavour.
PAIRING: Due to its high body in the mouth, it is able to withstand dishes that are more powerful and intense in structure. For this reason, it surprises when accompanied by large game meat and gelatinous meats such as cheeks or the famous oxtail, with which it forms a special combination, since the great acidity achieved over time balances the mouth. With stews and casseroles it is unmatched, there is no wine that harmonizes better, aromatizes and provides acidity and body for the flavor balance. Also with very salty cheeses, nuts etc. Excellently dampens the intensity of Mexican food.
VINO PXIMENEZ MONTILLA MORILES
It requires a very selective harvest (Pedro Ximénez), where the bunches with the highest ripening point are chosen, cut by hand and transported in boxes with a maximum capacity of 25 kilos, so that the grapes arrive in the best conditions. The bunches are taken to the walkways, where they are placed on esparto grass mats (or more recently in plastic meshes that promote aeration and better health of the product) to let the grapes sunbathe. During the raisin phase, the bunches must be turned so that the grapes are sunbathed evenly on both sides of the bunch. The aim is not a total raisining of the grapes, but a slight dehydration (50% of the weight more or less) so that by reducing the water content in the berry the sugar concentration is doubled.
When the raisins arrive at the winery, most of the must is extracted by means of milling and in horizontal presses. In this press, almost 80% of the must is released. However, the mass that comes out of the press still contains a lot of must and is pressed again, this time in vertical hydraulic presses with greater pressure, extracting a must that is much richer in aroma and flavour. Once the must is obtained, it is fermented to 9 degrees, without allowing fermentation, alcohol is added (each winemaker what the final alcohol level of his Pedro Ximénez wine will be) until it is within the final range.
The minimum alcohol content for this type of wine is 15% vol.
In its production, it is required that 95% of the grapes are of the “Pedro Ximénez” variety. As for the method and the maturation time, the Pedro Ximénez can be marketed without being subjected to ageing, or subjected to oxidative ageing, which can be done through the criaderas and solera system for a minimum of two years, or through the vintage system. It is normally subjected to oxidative aging, which gradually increases its color, a color that ranges from amber to almost jet black tones.
TEMPERATURE: This wine can be consumed at any temperature, from room temperature to straight from the freezer.
TASTING NOTES: When tasting, we can distinguish the youngest and unmatured Pedro Ximénez, with an old gold or amber color, from those with more maturation, which have intense mahogany or jet tones. Aromas of raisins and notes of rasp and a very dense appearance. In the mouth it is warm, unctuous, round. It conveys a series of persistent and at the same time very harmonious organoleptic sensations.
PAIRING: It is a dessert in itself, but it can be combined with other desserts. With ice cream and cheesecakes it builds a good friendship. But where the combination is extraordinary is with chocolate, whose sweet and bitter nuances immortalize in the mouth. Also, to finish a lunch with a cheese platter is unparalleled, especially with blue cheeses.
VINO GENEROSO DE LICOR
Vinos generosos de licor are made using the traditional practice of cabeceo or wine blending.
During the blending process, a certain amount of natural sweet wine or, in some cases, concentrated must is added to a fortified wine.
This results in different levels of sweetness, but always with a sugar content of more than 5 grams per liter.
Depending on the fortified wine used as the base wine and the sugar content in the final blend, three different styles of vinos generosos de licor are produced: Pale Cream, Medium and Cream.
Wine between 15 and 22 degrees, clean, clear and transparent, golden yellow to intense mahogany in color, with aromas typical of maturation and may show aromas of raisins.
PALE CREAM
Pale Cream is a blend of Fino wine and concentrated grape must rectified for its sugar content. This must, which consists exclusively of the sugar content and part of the organic water of the grape, is generally preferred over natural sweet wines in the production of Pale Cream because it preserves the characteristic original light yellow colour.
A generous liqueur wine, from 15 to 22%, with a sugar content between 60 and 140 g/l. It is clean, clear and transparent, straw yellow to old gold in colour, with an aroma typical of organic maturation, such as yeast and a sweet taste.
CREAM
Cream is a blended or cabeceo wine made from dry wines that have been aged oxidatively – Oloroso or Amontillado – and generally sweetened with Pedro Ximénez. The most commonly used base wine is Oloroso, which gives it a full, intense character. Generous liqueur wine, from 15 to 22 degrees, with a sugar content between 45 and 115 g/l. It is clean and clear, old gold to intense mahogany in colour, with woody aromas typical of ageing, and can show aromas of raisins and compact in the mouth.
MOSCATEL
Wine that comes from the Muscat grape, minimum 85%. Golden yellow to intense mahogany in colour, with aromas typical of the variety, such as floral and fruity notes, and can show aromas of raisins and a slightly acidic and dense taste in the mouth. It is an ideal wine to drink alone and after food.
Brandy is also made in Montilla Moriles. What is Brandy?
The name Brandy has a Dutch touch. The word brandy comes from the Dutch word brandewijn. This is because much of the alcohol produced was exported to the Netherlands, especially in the 17th and 18th centuries. Later, England became the largest buyer and the word brandewijn was shortened and anglicized to Brandy. The first, unmatured distillates of the wine are still called "holandas".
Which people or peoples exactly invented the art of distilling will always remain a point of disagreement. However, it is certain that it was the Arabs or Moors, who ruled over a large part of the Iberian Peninsula from 711, who introduced the technique in southern Spain around the eighth or ninth century AD. The new Muslim rulers were not allowed to drink the wines from the region because of their religion. They also distilled the wine into alcohol (from the Arabic al-cohol) which they used as a disinfectant and as a basis for medicines, cosmetics and perfumes.
From the 16th century onwards, much of the alcohol produced was exported, mainly to the Netherlands, England and France. The alcohol was shipped in oak barrels. The story goes that from one shipment a barrel was accidentally left behind in the bodega and forgotten for years. When this barrel was rediscovered after a few years and some of the alcohol was tasted, the special flavour that the alcohol had acquired through years of working with the oak was discovered: brandy was born.
How is brandy made
After the harvest, the grapes are pressed (3rd pressing) and the juice is left to ferment in wooden or metal barrels, whereby alcohol is formed (up to approximately 15%). This alcohol is distilled several times in copper stills (alambiques or alquitaras) to alcohols of 70 to 90% (the so-called holandas or aguardientes). These holandas are left to mature in American oak barrels. The interaction of the alcohol with the wood and oxygen finally produces the brandy. Brandy is also made according to the system of soleras and criaderas.
Depending on the maturation time in oak barrels, 3 classes of brandy are distinguished.
Solera – the youngest brandy, with an average maturation time of 1 year
Solera Reserva – with an average maturation of 3 – 5 years
Soleras Gran Reserva – the oldest and most beautiful brandies, with a maturation of at least 5 years, but the best mature for at least 10 years
VERMUT
A well-known product that is made in Montilla Moriles is Vermut. Vermut (also called vermouth) is a wine made in this area with Pedro Ximenez grapes flavored with a mix of aromatic herbs and spices (including rosemary, sage, cinnamon and orange peel, gentian herb) with biological aging in American wooden barrels. It was originally developed in France in the 18th century, inspired by a German fortified wine made with wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), a plant called "Wermut" in German.
VINAGRES
In the DO Montilla-Moriles, not only wine is made but also Vinagres, obtained by acetifying DOP wines, to which grape must from the Pedro Ximénez or Moscatel grape varieties can be added to mature them in oak barrels. Depending on the type and the aging time, the vinegars can be classified as: Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva or Añada. Depending on the type of must, one can distinguish Pedro Ximénez Vinegar or Moscatel Vinegar.
DRY VINEGARS:
The ageing of this vinegar can be:
CRIANZA: Vinegar with a maturation period in wood – dynamic system of criaderas and solera – of at least six months.
RESERVA: Vinegar with a maturation period in wood – criaderas and solera system – of at least two years.
GRAN RESERVA: Vinegar that has undergone at least ten years of wood maturation in the criaderas and solera system.
VINTAGE/ ANADA: Vinegar subjected to a static maturation period of at least three years.
SWEET VINEGARS (VINAGRE AL PEDRO XIMÉNEZ): During the maturation process, dried grape must of the Pedro Ximénez variety is added to this type of vinegar.
VINAGRE AL MOSCATEL: Vinegar to which, during the maturation process, grape must – dried or not – of the Moscatel variety is added.
What is the criaderas and soleras system?
Most wines under the Montilla-Moriles Designation of Origin are aged in barrels using the criaderas and solera system, a very old and dynamic process that is generally applicable to both biological and oxidative ageing.
The criaderas and solera system consists of partially extracting or removing wine from each of the barrels that form the same bowl or criadera, with a certain homogeneous level of ageing, and replacing or sprinkling it with wine from another bowl or the youngest criadera, using unaged wine to replace the youngest criadera of all.
In this way, each criadera always has a share of all the wines of the successive vintages with which it is filled. The last criadera, where the ageing process ends, is called "solera" (meaning of the word solera is ground) and from it the already matured wine is removed, which is the result of the homogenization and prolonged maturation of the wines of all the vintages from which the said solera dates until the last vintage with which it was "sprayed". The boots have a greater capacity and thickness of the staves the closer they are to the ground, in order to withstand the increasingly higher stress exerted on them.
In contrast to the criaderas and solera system, there is a static maturation system, in which the wines of each of the vintages are matured separately, without at any time combining wines from different vintages. In this system, a minimum maturation period of twelve months is established, with the exception of the sweet wine "Pedro Ximenez" when new wooden barrels are used, in which case the minimum required maturation period will be six months.
Similarities and Differences: Sherry and Montilla Moriles
Both areas (and to a large extent the Malaga area) produce similar wines in the same variety of styles (Fino, Amontillado (note that this name originally meant Montilla-like), Oloroso, Palo Cortado and Pedro Ximénez) and share most of the production methods. Also, the soil in both areas is Albariza.
But there are differences. First of all, the name Sherry is protected. Very little Pedro Ximénez is grown in the Sherry region and these grapes/wines come mainly from the Montilla-Moriles region. The rules of the D.O. Jerez even have an exception for this practice, so PX wine from Montilla can legally be called PX sherry after it has spent at least two years in a bodega in Jerez.
Fino and Amontillado from Montilla-Moriles are also aged under a layer of flor, just like Sherry, which grows more slowly and remains thinner than in Jerez due to the distance from the sea. It gives similar characteristics to the wine, but because it is less powerful and consumes less glycerol, a Fino from Montilla-Moriles will generally retain more of its body and structure. This also makes it seem slightly fruitier and sweeter than a Fino de Jerez and they reach a greater age.
The predominant grape in Jerez is the Palomino variety, while in MONTILLA MORILES the most commonly used grape is Pedro Ximenez (PX). The natural alcohol content of the PX grape is 15 degrees, which is necessary for the “flor” veil required for biological ageing. In Sherry, between 4 and 5 degrees of alcohol must be added to reach this level, as Palomino has less sugar and the maritime climate. In Jerez, the Palomino variety produces a drier and more neutral wine, while in Montilla-Moriles, Pedro Ximénez has more sugar in the juice and a certain character. Fino Montillano has a slightly softer sensation and a certain character compared to the drier and more bitter taste of Jerezano. The 'fino' of Montilla-Moriles has a continental aroma of thyme and rosemary. The palate is hazelnut, compared to that of Jerez which is almond, and of aromas of olive and of a very dry taste. The wines of Montilla-Moriles have more body than those of Jerez, with a stronger aroma, lower acidity, less dry and less bitter.
The temperatures in Montilla Moriles are more extreme, since it is possible to reach 45 degrees during the day and 28 at night. In this region the summers are hotter, longer and drier, there are even more than 2800 hours of sunshine. Now the maximum temperatures in Jerez do not exceed 41 degrees and the minimum temperatures 15 degrees, given the winds that come from the sea. Also lower humidity given its location more inland.
The Sherry Regulatory Council has always refused to include still wines in its regulations, because it is intended for fortified wines. The wineries of Jerez can only produce them under the I.G.P. Wine from the land of Cádiz and “table wine”. In the D.O. Montilla-Moriles - unlike Jerez - still white wines fall under the designation of origin.
The difference between a Sherry and a Montilla Moriles also lies in the way they are made. Generally, the wines of Montilla Moriles went into Tinajas (clay or concrete vats) but nowadays most winemakers use temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. In Jerez, on the other hand, the mechanism is made of sobretablas which are made with the wine of the year. Sobretablas: Spanish term (meaning "on the table") for a young wine. The wine is, as it were, "put on the table" to classify it for further use. This period is of the utmost importance, because during the first months of life the wine will already show its authentic vocation and will go towards the final maturation phase. After a period that can vary from six months to a year, it is analyzed again to carry out the second classification. The aim is therefore to determine which type of sherry the wine is suitable for. This implies that Sherry wines undergo a considerably longer maturation period than Montilla Moriles wines. Each barrel is sensorially tested by an experienced capataz (cellar master). The inferior wines with an acidic, hard taste are given cuatro raya (four lines) and are only suitable for distillation (Brandy de Jerez) or for vinegar production (Vinagre de Jerez).
In Jerez, there are wines with categories of qualified age: wines over 20 years or "V.O.S." and wines over 30 years or "V.O.R.S."
The finos and amontillados in Montilla Moriles are generally not fortified (unlike sherry) which demonstrably contributes to the balance and complexity. Also, the flor is weaker and thinner than in Jerez, which gives the wines more fullness and fruit. Most wines are matured, as in Jerez, according to the Criaderas and Solera system (American oak barrels with a maximum capacity of 600 litres, and in biological maturation they are filled to 500 litres to encourage the spontaneous development of the flor layer), but there is also an important tradition of vintage or añada wines. For sweet PX, the harvested grapes are laid out on mats and left in the sun for a few days. After pressing, rectified wine alcohol is added. Unlike in Jerez, the barrels are filled to the brim, which results in a fresher, less oxidative style.
Just like in Jerez, the bodegas are large. These so-called Cathedral Bodegas are not only tall because of the wooden barrels that are placed in rows next to and on top of each other because of the Solera and Criadera system, but they are also built for the climatic conditions. The idea is to control the temperature inside the bodega. There are windows at great height for the evening breeze that brings humidity, which is vital for the development of the flor (the yeast layer). The walls of the bodegas are more than 60 cm thick and provide excellent insulation. The height of the buildings allows heat to rise and accumulate at the top of the building. The ground is covered with albero, a type of sandstone clay that, depending on the time of year, is moistened to regulate both temperature and humidity. The wet albero cools the air by retaining cooler temperatures. Because the clay is very porous, it evenly releases moisture into the environment. A natural air conditioning!
This was the theoretical part of the area. In part 2 follows a report of the 3 bodegas we visited and also the most famous bodegas in the area.
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